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I looked down at the book I was reading, Albert Camus's A Happy Death in an English translation. I was astonished. 'How could you tell?'

'I knew right off. You Israelis have taken to the roads in droves.'

'My name's Yossi,' I said.

'Nice to meet you. I'm Marcus. I came here straight from the train station. Lucky for me I caught the boat. I would have had to wait a whole day for the next one.'

Marcus went on talking as if we were old friends. 'The train was the pits. I left Juliaca early this morning. It's impossible to get anything to eat on that train. I haven't had a bite. I hope we get to the island fast. I'm starving.'

I pulled a roll, some cheese, and an orange out of my pack and offered them to him.

'Thanks,' Marcus said. 'I've noticed Israelis always share whatever they have. I appreciate it.'

He made himself a sandwich of the roll and cheese and ate hungrily. The orange was his dessert.

'I'll pay you back when we get to the island.'

'Forget it,' I told him. 'I've heard things are expensive in Taquile. If it's all right with you, we could stay together tonight and share our food.'

'I'm in.'

Marcus turned to the Germans and had a lively conversation with them in their language. Then he turned to the French group and spoke French with them. He had a compelling personality, and